Oh PARIS... AW 2015-2016 Days 5 and 6: Such intense days

I'll be honest with you. I am a mere mortal from a third world country that loves fashion with madness. I have no formal training in the field, but after years of seeing so much fashion and follow it through magazines and editorials, I feel quite capable of exercising a logical judgment, and I have started to think about the hard work that editors of fashion magazines, bloggers and websites I visit every day have when they bring an update of all that happens in Fashion Weeks, and that makes me conclude the respect I have for them. Not an easy task whatsoever.

Days 5 and 6 have been particularly intense. I will start by saying that Junya Watanabe and Comme Des Garcons brought quite a trip to the runway this season. I just don't want to say anything else about them, because I really think they're way beyond fabulousness to be part of a regular review. I prefer to wait to write a whole resemble of everything Japanese masters showed this season.

I will start with Céline. Well... I felt Phoebe Philo's mind was set free, that's all I can say. I saw a bit of everything she might love: from extreme minimalism with the loose trousers to the knitted sweaters and the plain white sneakers to the extreme sophistication she got from the flower embroideries and the cut of some tops and jackets, let's not mention the use of fur, quite unusual. The collection was intense, beautiful, some animal print going on... a very diverse set. Some might think it wasn't cohesive, but I see it as her "greatest hits" if I have to call the some way. I loved everything, from the pieces themselves to the styling - the fact of seeing some girls without make up and some with excessive amounts of it drove me crazy!

 

 

Céline accesories details. All photos by vogue.co.uk

Now the oversized bags and shoes... SIGH!!! Saving for a lifetime to buy my muses some of those items... Great work Ms. Philo!

Céline - AW 2015-2016
Ally Ertel modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Céline - AW 2015-2016
Chloe Wheatcroft modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Céline - AW 2015-2016
Irina Djuranovic modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Céline - AW 2015-2016
Jamilla Hoogenboom modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Céline - AW 2015-2016
Phillipa Hemphrey modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Givenchy... damn... that was hot!!! I will focus on the runway exclusively, front row...??? No way!!!There's something I loved from this collection. It had a gypsy vibe I got quite pleasing. The over-the-top styling (hair & make.up) didn't overshadow the actual pieces. It had a lot of symmetry, prints were fantastic (the peacock one was a highlight for me), and the embroidered fabrics (the last pieces shown by Ajak Deng, Maria Borges and Julia Nobis) were fantastic. It was a very fancy yet edgy collection. Fascinated by Riccardo Tisci's work this season.

Givenchy - AW 2015-2016
Lineisy Montero modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Givenchy - AW 2015-2016
Magdalena Jasek modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Givenchy - AW 2015-2016
Anna Grostina modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Givenchy - AW 2015-2016
Varvara Shutova modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Givenchy - AW 2015-2016
Arina Levchenko modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Givenchy - AW 2015-2016
Ajak Deng modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

I should mention how impressed I am with Fausto Puglisi's work for Emanuel Ungaro. While it is true his eponymous collection had pieces with very innovative designs, it did not reach the level of sophistication that he presented on today's Ungaro show. It had both masculine and feminine approaches, I was fascinated with the different techniques he used in the tailoring and fabrics' treatment on this collection. Although it was monochromatic (purely black & white), it felt pretty varied, and presented different options of cutting and design. Stephen Jones hats were a highlight for sure. Very nice collection.

Emanuel Ungaro - AW 2015-2016
Amilna Estêvão modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Emanuel Ungaro - AW 2015-2016
Hedvig Palm modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Emanuel Ungaro - AW 2015-2016
Chiharu Okunugi modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Emanuel Ungaro - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Emanuel Ungaro - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Emanuel Ungaro - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Haider Ackermann brought a different vibe to his collection. He left his ethereal and romantic approach slightly aside, and presented a very versatile collection with a pleasant rock and roll feel, and a very distintctive dynamic vibe. Kenzo and Acne Studios presented collections away from their ethnic and regional approaches, and instead they presented a much more comprehensive and friendlier collection for a wider audience, geographically speaking. While Kenzo got a bit rid of their signature prints, showing them less buzzier; Acne brought less sporty shapes and more feminine silhouettes.They were both very good collections. 

Acne Studios - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Haider Ackermann - AW 2015-2016
Katlin Aas modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Kenzo - AW 2015-2016
Sam Rollinson modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

When I have nothing good to say I prefer to keep quiet, but I want to point out that the silent debut Guillaume Henry had for Nina Ricci left me wanting some more. While it is true Nina Ricci is pure femininity and zero eccentricity, I think this collection had a low volume. I must say I loved the t-shirt cut dresses, the boyish look of some outfits, however I expected more from it. I am a fan of the high standards he left left at Carven, I certainly knew beforehand that his aesthetic with Peter Copping's are two different things, but I expected a little more "volume" to call it somehow. Looking forward to see his future collections.

Nina Ricci - AW 2015-2016
Ola Munik modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Nina Ricci - AW 2015-2016
Ondria Hardin modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com