This is the case of the collection that the new creative director of Hermès, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented during this fashion week in Paris. The collection was much younger, I had a fairly accessible and less "ethereal" and "unreachable" air. It bring lots of the luxurious austerity feel her previous work at Céline and The Row had. I liked it from beginning to end. Very cohesive and the quality of the pieces spoke for itself. Nice work.
 |
| Hermés - AW 2015-2016 Alba Pistolesi modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Hermés - AW 2015-2016 Karolin Wolter modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Now Iris van Herpen... that collection took me to heaven and brought me back. Everything was about the confection and the design of pieces. Fabric treatment was a dream, and flawlessly executed. The way she played with volume and texture was impressive. No make up and a blank stage were the minimal resources she used to present these amazing collection. Brilliant!
 |
| Iris van Herpen - AW 2015-2016 Daiane Conterato modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Iris van Herpen - AW 2015-2016 Irina Kravchenko modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Iris van Herpen - AW 2015-2016 Nastya Sten modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Esteban Cortazar brought a varied and quite ethereal collection, masterfully executed. His approach has matured a lot, and each collection he is showing is getting more and more solid. As Stella McCartney, which showed an effortless but well tailored collections, always with that ethereal feel. I loved the executive air it had, and Ms. McCartney's tailoring skills are definitely a highlight.
 |
| Esteban Cortazar - AW 2015-2016 Mari Agory modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Esteban Cortazar - AW 2015-2016 Ondria Hardin modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Stella McCartney - AW 2015-2016 Edie Campbell modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Stella McCartney - AW 2015-2016 Luping Wang modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Chloé and Sonia Rykiel did great this season as well. In both cases the pieces were amazing in their own way. Julie de Libran presented a beautiful collection for Sonia Rykiel. Since its debut last season, expectations about their work have remained high, and she did not disappoint at all this time. While the show itself remained modest and intimate, the quality of the collection is unsurpassed. Some velvet this season, the house's incomparable knitwork and 4 male outfits were presented, all of this happened in a relaxed and peaceful atmosphere, despite the pressure that was on Ms. de Libran's shoulders to maintain a collection of equal or better quality than the one presented last season.
 |
| Sonia Rykiel - AW 2015-2016 Cindy Bruna modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Sonia Rikyel - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Chloé meanwhile presented a more empowered collection. The woman who Mary Wright Keller presented this time is less fragile, always very bohemian but less fragile. Many wool and beautiful fabrics, a versatile and casual collection. I particularly loved the denim pieces, it gave a very nice touch to the collection.
 |
| Chloé - AW 2015-2016 Alisa Ahmann modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
 |
| Chloé - AW 2015-2016 Annika Krijt modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
On a separate note. Viktor & Rolf presented a beautiful collection, flawlessly made, this was the right time to present a runway show. Why to present something so well designed in a lookbook? This show was definitely worth to be seen in a runway. They did a brilliant job.
 |
| Viktor & Rolf - AW 2015-2016 Jamie Bochert modeling Photo: Viktor & Rolf |
 |
| Viktor & Rolf - AW 2015-2016 Linn Arvidsson modeling Photo: Viktor & Rolf |
Moral of the story: Not everything that is glitzy is brilliant and viceversa. Lesson learned!
No hay comentarios:
Publicar un comentario