Those Japanese masters who brought MAGIC to Paris... AW 2015-2016

Junya Watanabe Finale - AW 2015-2016
Photo: LOVE Magazine, given to me byMarla, my best friend :)

I have a morbid fascination with certain designers and fashion houses, that will never allow me to be objective in my judgments toward them. Hedi Slimane's work in Saint Laurent, anything that John Galliano and/ or Maison Margiela does, everything from Céline's Phoebe Philo or everything that Alexander McQueen designed when he was around us is sacred to me. And there are those JAPANESE TITANS...

They are a particular group of designers who are one step ahead of everyone, those who I don't dare to include in "best collections" lists, because their magic goes far beyond. They never follow trends, and always provide innovative and unique elements to Paris Fashion Weeks.

I'll start talking about everything that comes from the Comme des Garçons school. Ms. Rei Kawakubo is a genious. She has built a cult around her legendary brand, three alternate lines have been detached from the main one, two of them presented during Paris Fashion Week. It is a force in fashion that has strengthened more and more since the 80's, and there's no way she follows conventional patterns, and still has a great success in the world.

3 collections related to Comme des Garçons were presented during Paris Fashion Week. The mythical collection presented by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. An ode celebrating life and death. Many knots and padded pieces that were softened with lace and other delicate fabrics, covered faces and that signature magic that only Ms. Kawakubo can create. Only 18 outfits were presented, but it was the perfect dose of wonder we needed to go to heaven and and get back several times without consuming any narcotic :) Wonderful!

Comme des Garçons - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Comme des Garçons - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Comme des Garçons - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Comme des Garçons - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

An alternate collection, called "Comme des Garcons Comme des Garçons" was presented a few days later, a line that showed an "unusual mix" of school clothes for amish girls and work clothes for men. The pieces looked quite organic, but it is also observed that the materials with which they were made were mostly synthetic, and the perverse and innocent look of the entire collection captivated me. The entire collection seems pretty simple and without much design going on, but there's a lot of mind involved for sure, especially in the lace pieces and coats, which were exquisite.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

And now JUNYA... SIGH!!! Junya Watanabe is Ms. Rei Kawakubo's darling pupil, and under the Comme des Garçons' sponsorship he produces his independent collection, that always amazes everyone, including me. It is not easy to interpret the vision or source of inspiration of Mr. Watanabe, what I know is that I saw many hexagons everywhere, a lot of volume, a lot of geometry and a strong dose of pleating, which is a Junya Watanabe's trademark. This particular collection raised his search for complex textures to a higher and new level, and their pairing he generates putting complex pieces with white plain shirts is exceptional. As always Junya outdid himself, and led me to a very pleasant visual orgasm. I don't want to fall into the cliché, but this was the best collection presented in Paris for me. Fantastic!

Junya Watanabe - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Junya Watanabe - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Junya Watanabe - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Junya Watanabe - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Junya Watanabe - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Junya Watanabe - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

We also have these designers have been able to establish a balance between the conceptualism their crazy minds produce and the ease of making pieces for everyday use. Jun Takahashi of Undercover, Chotise Abe of Sacai and Tsumori Chisato are a perfect example of that. 

Jun Takahashi has many followers in the fashion world because of the collections he produces for his brand Undercover, so conceptual and off the common denominator. I was pleasantly impressed once again, because he presented a collection that was apparently very "ready to wear", but with a strong concept, and a topic he put on the table, in a very smart and subtle way. 

Undercover - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Undercover - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Undercover - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

In terms of design and tailoring it had a bit of everything: knits, many oversized pieces, beautiful jackets with appliqués, very well done ... In a more conceptual level it had more. A reflection between wanting to be young and wanting to be old. Models with plastic surgery masks, and all the pieces had this air of "hospital clothing" that put the thoughtful touch to the collection. The guy is a genius. A master of tailoring, and so versatile ... he can go from the most complex and elaborate to the most minimal and conceptual in minutes! Great!

Chitose Abe has seen before her eyes the tremendous growth of her brand Sacai. This time she left some of Sacai's usual conceptualism aside, trying to turn those androgynous and beautifully amorphous forms she has managed in her previous collections, into molding them to the female figure in order to make it more flattering and feminine in a successful way. Many outerwear, with heavy fabrics like wool and fur, softening them with cute macramé dresses perfect for the woman's silhouette. Beautiful collection.

Sacai - AW 2015-2016
Julie Hoomans modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Sacai - AW 2015-2016
Maartje Verhoef modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Sacai - AW 2015-2016
Sophia Ahrens modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Sacai - AW 2015-2016
Yulia Ermakova modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Tsumori Chisato has an extensive experience in enhancing the feminine silhouette, using Japanese elements of different types. On this occasion she made use of "anime prints" that were painted by hand, and which are a trademark of her brand. A  very well made collection, beautiful knitwear particularly, pretty elegant and fun at the same time, no an easy task to accomplish.

Tsumori Chisato - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Tsumori Chisato - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

And the classic ones ... those beyond any judgment or criticism. Japanese fashion houses who have been in the market for many years, and that already have a prestige that no one would ever be able to overshadow. Beautiful collections of Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Anrealage :)

Anrealage - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Issey Miyake - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Yohji Yamamoto - AW 2015-2016
Photo: Yohji Yamamoto

HONOR WHOM HONOR DESERVES!!!