Maison Martin Margiela is for me something too special. When I get to rank each season's shows; MM Margiela occupies a place beyond special, along with all Japanese designers (Comme Des Garcons' Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe, Issey Miyake, Undercover, Sacai among others). For me all of them are beyond good and evil. They all represent the innovative face of fashion nowadays.
Maison Martin Margiela's infamous masks |
Martin Margiela's philosophy was to keep their workspace and their collaborators as if they were in a laboratory, even wearing white robes, and no one ever highlighted as a star designer, he used to let his creations speak for themselves.
When Renzo Rosso took over the company, he kept the same working creative atmosphere, and never attributed Maison Martin Margiela's designs to a specific creative director; he attributed this work to an "in-house team."
FW 2015 Couture |
The fact is that MM Margiela presented wonderful collections, and that all the fans wondered who designed such beauties, took Suzy Menkes, current editor in chief of Vogue's digital versions worldwide, to reveal during Paris Couture shows in July, 2014 who was the mastermind behind Margiela's designs. It was Matthieu Blazy, a former Raf Simons' contributor, who led the Maison, and who created such out of this world collections.
Matthieu Blazy |
Quoting Ms. Menkes: "It is understandable that Renzo Rosso, whose company Only the Brave is behind Margiela, should want to keep Blazy backstage - especially since the founding designer so rarely showed his face. But you can't keep such a talent under wraps."
Ms. Suzy Menkes herself |
So thanks to Ms. Menkes we know who has been behind Maison Martin Margiela all this time :)
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