3rd. World Fashion Geek: febrero 2015

sábado, 28 de febrero de 2015

Milan Fashion Week highlights. Days 3 & 4

Milan has brought great fashion on days 3 and 4.

My highlights for these two days are the obvious ones: Bottega Veneta brought one of the most beautiful shows of the season; a perfect cast, on-trend designs but perfectly engineered, loose pants and well tailored jackets and blouses were the bomb! Those freaking shoulders... that amount of lace looking like something else, not boring at all, that last suit modeled by Edie... sigh! Graphism, geometry and abundance of color in fabrics stood out tremendously. Accessories were like always very beautiful. Those golden boots were the perfect dose of extravagance the collection needed. Anyway, Tomas Maier never disappoints.

Bottega Veneta - AW 2015-2016
Varya Shutova modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Bottega Veneta - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Bottega Veneta - AW 2015-2016
Aamito Lagum modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Bottega Veneta - AW 2015-2016
Esmeralda Seay Reynolds modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Bottega Veneta - AW 2015-2016
Sarah Abney modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Bottega Veneta - AW 2015-2016
Bhumika Arora modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Bottega Veneta - AW 2015-2016
Stella Lucia modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

The well executed minimalism is a delight, and this was clearly demonstrated with the collections presented by Jil Sander's Rodolfo Paglialunga and Agnona's Stefano Pilati. Both collections presented an exquisite variety of coats in neutral colors. For Jil Sander I must say that necklines were masterfully executed, this detail created a perfect alchemy between coats and bottom inserts. The design of the dresses seemed exquisite, and subliminally sexy. Bags, gloves, belts and shoes certainly stood out.

Jil Sander - AW 2015-2016
Fei Fei Sun modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Jil Sander - AW 2015-2016
Magdalena Jasek modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Jil Sander - AW 2015-2016
Valery Kaufman modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Jil Sander - AW 2015-2016
Vanessa Moody modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Luxury shown in Agnona is obvious from everywhere you see it. Just if we see the fabrics, quality in handcraft, impressive. Stefano Pilati showed a small collection and not in a catwalk (it was a lookbook), however it is notorious the creative freedom he has in Agnona, his point of view and the attention to detail he puts in such minimalist but exquisite designs, that look like a million dollars. Unforgettable!

Agnona - AW 2015-2016
Photo: Agnona

Antonio Marras presented one of the best shows of Milan Fashion Week so far. His handling of patterns and volume in the designs was brilliant. Nothing modest, flamboyant and very edgy. Embroidery and brocade on many of the pieces were exquisite. It gave the pieces a classic feel in an unconventional ways. I am not a fan of using lace, but Antonio Marras made it look romantic and very modern, nothing boring or overbearing. Unconventional draping in some pieces was very beautiful. A fabulous collection, dense but romantic in the best sense. Satisfied with it.

Antonio Marras - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

If there is something I definitely want to highlight is the level of tailoring and quality in fabrics and materials. It is sky high! Watching shows such as Sportmax, Bally, Tod's, Byblos, Gabriele Colangelo and Blumarine among others, I must say I am impressed.

Bally - AW 2015-2016
Mica Arganaraz modeling
Photo: Bally

Blumarine - AW 2015-2016
Josephine Le Tutour
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gabriele Colangelo - AW 2015-2016
Kasia Jujeczka modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Sportmax - AW 2015-2016
Molly Bair modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Tod's - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

jueves, 26 de febrero de 2015

Milan Fashion Week highlights. Days 1 & 2

Ok. There's something about Milano that doesn't take me to love most of the shows completely. I don't know why, but I must say that this time I've seen every single show, and seen lots of great design going on. Quite happy for that. Actually, my all FW's favorite show of this season has happened in Milano so far, from a house I've never followed, which is Gucci. I'm absolutely impressed, but I already wrote about it, so I'd better stop with that for now.

Now my highlights from the Milano shows I've seen so far on these two days:

I must start with Jeremy Scott from Moschino. I'm impressed he's getting closer and closer to Franco Moschino's DNA. This time he went for hip-hop in a not-so-obvious way. You could clearly see the reference in the styling, but pieces themselves were versatile enough to figure in different settings.
I particularly loved three element in what Jeremy Scott presented today: the fitting was superb, the quilted coats and jackets, and the denim treatment (that patchwork in jeans and jackets was AMAZING). Not a fan of everything that was shown on the runway today, must be honest, but I'm so happy to see Jeremy Scott going in the right direction. Franco Moschino's spirit was everywhere!

Moschino - AW 2015-2016
Anna Ewers modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Moschino - AW 2015-2016
Bonx Walton modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Moschino - AW 2015-2016
Sasha Luss modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Now Prada ... Those who know me also know the love-fanatism-obsession-devotion that I have for everything that Miuccia Prada does. This was a continuation of her Pre-Fall, but with lots of pastel tones. As always Ms. Prada went once again to a very different path, away from the "trend". I never imagined seeing such an extense palette of pastel colors in a Prada's runway show, but as always Ms. Prada brings the unexpected. The cut, precision and tailoring of suits, jackets and trousers was impeccable, especially in the pieces made in tweed. Beautiful.

Prada - AW 2015-2016
Greta Valrese modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Prada - AW 2015-2016
Paula Galecka modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Prada - AW 2015-2016
Willow modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

The shoes were fabulous, they looked very comfortable and versatile, nothing compared to what she has already presented. As the runway show moved on, the pastels started to fade away, which pleased me greatly. Short dresses with a sort of 3-D embroidery and rhinestones appliqués were heavenly.

Prada - AW 2015-2016
Amilna Estevao modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Prada - AW 2015-2016
Dylan Xue modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Prada - AW 2015-2016
Lineisy Montero modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

See Prada AW 2015-2016 runway show video here:

I guess I must get used to such amount of pastels coming from Prada, it was totally unexpected, and I must say that the bags were quite modest in design, which was offset by the clothing somehow. The pins, glasses, shoes and gloves were everything. Adored them.

All photos from indigitalimages.com

As always, Ms. Prada is giving us plenty to talk about.

Other shows brought some great stuff each. I must say I particularly enjoyed No. 21, Fay and Fendi. Amazing first 2 days!

Fausto Puglisi - AW 2015-2016
Jamie Bochert modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Fay - AW 2015-2016
Julia Nobis modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Fendi - AW 2015-2016
Astrid Holler modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Marcelo Burlon County of Milan - AW 2015-2016
Photo: Marcelo Burlon County of Milan

No. 21 - AW 2015-2016
Kendall Jenner modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

PS: Azealia Banks performing at Phillip Plein's show was THE BOMB by the way. Such a great moment!!!

Azealia Banks performing at the
Phillip Plein AW 2015 show in Milano
Photo: Getty Images

miércoles, 25 de febrero de 2015

What I feel about Gucci's collection designed by Alessandro Michele...

Alessandro Michele
Gucci's Creative Director
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Well... Let's start by saying that this is a new Gucci, not even close or similar to the ones Frida Giannini and Tom Ford commanded.

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Antonia Wilson modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Esmeralda Seay-Reynolds modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Like in the debut collection presented by Alessandro Michele during men's fashion week a couple of months ago, androgyny seized Gucci. An artistic, romantic and very androgynous image in a man was the obvious inspiration for his designs. The collection itself was very well received by critics, and I assume that Kering's executives felt the same, because they wanted to switch the brand's approach to a more "daring" and "edgy" one.

Gucci - AW 2015-2015
Liza Ostanina modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Molly Bair modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Tessa Bruinsma modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Yumi Lambert modeling
Photo: insigitalimages.com

What Alessandro Michele presented today was heavenly. Total androgyny, girls who look like boys and viceversa. The cut of suits and reinventions of formal wear are clean, and do not stand in enhancing femininity, but rather to accentuate gender ambiguity. In terms of his muse, Alessandro Michele shows traits of naivety in their models if you look at them from afar, but very sexual and evil elements reflected in their necklines and transparencies, which makes this lady an ambiguous and mysterious one.

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Grace Simmons modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Mae Mei Lapres modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Marland Backus modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Gucci - AW 2015-2016
Harleth Kuusik modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Accessories are precious. The shoes are beautiful, very winter (fur greatly involved), and the belts with the Gucci logo and a horseshoe were a total success.

Gucci AW 2015-2016 shoes details below:

I wonder if in terms of merchantability this collection will generate the profits Kering executives expect. To be brutally honest, the whole collection is 100% away from Gucci's DNA, the one offered by Frida Giannini and Tom Ford to their former buyers and fans (luxury, femininity, high heels, red carpet pieces), however, in terms of creativity and innovation, I must say he's an absolute genius.

I hope that the "Slimane effect" occurs with the collection Alessandro just produced, and everything everything everything becomes bestseller. He really deserves it.

Bravo!