Rodarte Stage, designed by Bureau Betak - AW 2015-2016 Photo: Rodarte |
This thing is getting more and more interesting, and more and more difficult for me to write about, there are too many things good to talk about, too little time to post, but doing my best to be as fair a possible.
I'll start with Japanese brand ADEAM, designed by Hanako Maeda; who brought an interesting approach of how East meets West, combining Japanese shapes and textures with a very New York cosmopolitan feel.
ADEAM - AW 2015-2016 Irina Kravchenko modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
ADEAM - AW 2015-2016 JiHye Park modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
ADEAM - AW 2015-2016 Mona Matsuoka modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Vera Wang did the same today, a monochromatic palette and a beautiful layering, combining eastern and western shapes, with a chic sporty spirit. Adorable
Vera Wang - AW 2015-2016 Ashleigh Good modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Vera Wang - AW 2015-2016 Issa Lish modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Someone who is impressing me season after season is Carolina Herrera. She didn't get stuck in the past, and she's evolved in such an extraordinary and innovative way. Elegance and extreme femininity in her pieces is a trademark that will never be lost, but the was she's playing with volume, prints and 3-D effects in gowns is quite impressive. Love to see her going into the future so successfully.
Carolina Herrera - AW 2015-2016 Karlie Kloss modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Carolina Herrera - AW 2015-2016 Ming Xi modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Carolina Herrera - AW 2015-2016 Ondria Hardin modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Karen Walker is not just about eyewear, is about classy streetwear as well. The cut in jackets, and her experimentation with bold prints certainly make a statement. Loved the styling and the overall show. Great job!
Karen Walker - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Karen Walker - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Karen Walker - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Karen Walker - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Can be possible to show austerity and extreme elegance at the same time? It is, thanks to Band of Outsiders. Love the way they show very modest silhouettes with highly polished fabrics and accesories, that makes anyone stand out from the rest. Coats were a highlight of this collection, I would just loved to see their work on the runway, not just in a lookbook.
Band of Outsiders - AW 2015-2016 Photo: Band of Outsiders |
Band of Outsiders - AW 2015-2016 Photo: Band of Outsiders |
There's a show I expect anxiously season after season, it is Rodarte. This season didn't disappoint, and showed the sexiest and most suggestive pieces. Sparkly and embroidered fabrics treated flawlessly, and used in such a sexy but classy way, disco reference and some influence coming from the SS2015 collection.
Laura and Kate Mulleavy creates unconventionally sophisticated pieces, very different from everything we see on NYFW, with an exquisite couture feel. Not into Swarowski at all, but these ladies made me change my mind with the Swarowski skirt worn by Tilda Lindstam. Adored it!
Rodarte - AW 2015-2016 Tilda Lindstam modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Rodarte - AW 2015-2016 Audrey Nurit modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Rodarte - AW 2015-2016 Xiao Wen Ju modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Rodarte - AW 2015-2016 Anna Ewers modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Luella and Katie brought rebellion to Marc by Marc Jacobs.
The protest slogans could be read in graphics designs ("our future", "solidarity", "suffrage" "choice"), plus that obvious revolutionary soundtrack that included bands like T. Rex and Public Enemy, M.I.A. and fabulous The Clash. The show was a real political revolutionary statement.
Regarding the design I highlight metal fixtures in shoes, berets and bags, the cut and tailoring in jackets and coats, and the variety in graphics and textiles. Leather work was especially well executed. In general everything that was shown was impeccable.
Here's the video:
And to end this wonderful day we'll talk about the fact that KTZ moved from London to New York, and managed to get my full attention.
KTZ - AW 2015-2016 Grace Bol modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
KTZ - AW 2015-2016 Cristina Piccone modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
What a wonderful show. The prints and graphic symmetry was heavenly, impeccable styling, and fabulous treatment of wool and leather.
KTZ - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
KTZ - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
KTZ - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
A colorful show, quirky, flamboyant, funny, relevant.
The alternative touch that New York needed. Fabulous. I would post all images from the runway if possible, but I will just post a few, so others can be seen following this link: KTZ AW 2015-2016. Courtesy of Style.com.
Marjan Pejoski left me speechless as always. He's a genious.
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