martes, 24 de febrero de 2015

LFW AW 2015-2016 is over. Highlights from days 3 and on...

This week has brought amazing stuff to the table. I'm particularly impressed by three collections: one is of course Mary Katrantzou, who is about to make plastic (fluorescent plastic to be more precise) a trend. Yes, a trend. What I love about her collection is the risk she assumed playing with conventional fabrics and textures, mixed with unconvential ones. It could have been a disaster (just picture a classy knitted skirt with a piece of fluorescent foam attached to the waistband...). Guess what? It worked!!! A fantastic collection, and the riskiest Mary Katrantzou has presented so far. 


Mary Katrantzou - AW 2015-2016
Anastasia Lagune modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Mary Katrantzou - AW 2015-2016
Foam clutch worn by Elise Crombez
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Mary Katrantzou - AW 2015-2016
Elise Crombez modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Mary Katrantzou - AW 2015-2016
Mica Arganaraz modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Mary Katrantzou - AW 2015-2016
Sophia Ahrens modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Mary Katrantzou - AW 2015-2016
Yuan Bo Chao modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com



Now Christopher Kane... WOW!!! Simple silhouette, very simple, but the 3-D effect he got with the fabric manipulation (specially with the lace panels), and the sexual connotation he got from these "curious" images. A couple of tailored suits. It just started with very simple, yet well taillored suits, and then BOOM!!!---
Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Leila Nda modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Alexandra Elizabeth modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Clarine de Jonge modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Helena Severin modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Marie Piovesan modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Marte Mei van Haaster modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Saadi Schimmel modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Christopher Kane - AW 2015-2016
Zoe Huxford modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


The funny thing of all this is that most of pieces are high necked and below the knee... but with a high sexual content. That antagony is strangely explosive, and it is certainly a conversation piece wherever you go. I loved this collection, technically and because of the"confusing vibe" it generated. Quite an impressive work.


Giles... MY GILES!!! What a show!!! Darker than ever. The collection itself offered a well achieved tailoring, the psychedelic prints to which we are used to see on Giles' shows, and well executed pieces made out of patented leather with very high standards. 

The show itself was ominous, inspired by the spirits of the posh ladies will surely haunt the Chelsea Physic Garden, many "beautiful ghost" - Andreja Pejic back to the catwalk after her transition, Lily Donaldson and Jessica Stam, Jacquetta Wheeler for instance - and an amazing Anna Cleveland, who wore this cocktail dress impeccably, and that definitely stole the show. Some color going on, but monochromatic pieces definitely stood out. Amazing show, as always.


Giles - AW 2015-2016
Andreja Pejic modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Giles - AW 2015-2016
Anna Cleveland modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Giles - AW 2015-2016
Jacquetta Wheeler modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Giles - AW 2015-2016
Jessica Stam modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Giles - AW 2015-2016
Lily Donaldson modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Giles - AW 2015-2016
Mica Arganaraz modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Giles - AW 2015-2016
Saskia de Brauw modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Giles Deacon
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Antonio Berardi. Jonathan Saunders and Peter Pilotto offered feminine pieces, well executed and so flatttering to the female body. Prints in pieces designed by Jonathan Saunders and Peter Pilotto were outstanding, brilliant actually. Lots of pencil shapes and textiles such as velvet, knits and embroidered pieces all the way. I'll see lots of these worn on the streets and on the events for sure (well, not in my homeland, you know, but in magazines and TV at least :).


Antonio Berardi - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Antonio Berardi - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Jonathan Saunders - AW 2015-2016
Aamito Lagum modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Jonathan Saunders - AW 2015-2016
Harleth Kuusik modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Jonathan Saunders - AW 2015-2016
Stella Lucia modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Peter Pilotto - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Peter Pilotto - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Peter Pilotto - AW 2015-2016
JiHye Park modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com




David Koma offered an amazing feminine silhouette as well, but I must highlight the amazing work he does with fabric treatment. He's so versatile with his materials' manipulation, and the sexiness of his pieces is undeniable. I loved the exposed zipper he used in some of the pieces. A nice touch.


David Koma - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com
David Koma - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


I must confess that I have two presentations that are my pampered ones during LFW. 
The reason? Is that I see myself sitting on a Costa shop or a pub near the tube, watching all this army of empowered smart women of different nationalities, working in London, wearing practical fashion, with high quality and standards of design, despite its minimalist and clean shapes. That is precisely what Emilia Wickstead, Margaret Howell and Barbara Casasola offer. I love what they do both, especially what Barbara Casasola brought to her collection this time: a lot of experimentation with simple forms, that evoke oriental themes and the use of leather for the first time. Very well done to both.


Margaret Howell - AW 2015-2016
Amra Cerkezovic modeling
Photo: Margaret Howell
Margaret Howell - AW 2015-2016
Audrey Nurit modeling
Photo: Margaret Howell


Barbara Casasola - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Barbara Casasola - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Emilia Wickstead - AW 2015-2016
Mona Matsuoka modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Emilia Wickstead - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Thank you London, you rocked once again!

Regarding Milano, I am more than ready to see Marni, Bottega Veneta and my favorite of all times Prada.
A bit curious about what Gucci is bringing with Alessandro Michelle at the helm. We'll see! 






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