martes, 3 de marzo de 2015

Oh PARIS... AW 2015-2016 Day 1

New York is fascinating, London is unique and innovative, Milan is improving a lot, but Paris... OH PARIS  !!! There's no fashion week that can be compared to Paris. From day 1 the action starts to happen showing a little of everything. Fashion houses with a solid tradition, the big names like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Loewe, Céline, Hérmes among others, the Japanese gods who rank higher and are a step ahead of everyone else; the romantic and feminine ones; the conceptual ones; the dense and dark ones; well ... an amazing week. Day 1 started very well. I should stand out three shows in particular:

Anthony Vaccarello, who is now Versus' creative director, and who has the difficult task of differentiating both lines (Versus and his own) without divorcing from any of the collections' DNAs succeeded actually. 

It was a very sexy collection but with much more conceptual elements respecting its Belgian background, lots of asymmetry going on, dark - a lot of black and metal, some American western theme without falling into cliché, some rock vibe which is typical from Vaccarello's designs, a very cute show. 


Anthony Vaccarello - AW 2015-2016
Anja Rubik modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Anthony Vaccarello - AW 2015-2016
Grace Hartzel modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Each X Other is a relatively new brand. I love the attempt of Jenny Mannerheim and Ilan Delouis to create menswear for women. It reminds me Ann Demeleumeester and The Row pretty much, and this collection was versatile, with a highly innovative design as well as classic cuts and very clean lines that make these pieces stand out. Their work with knitting, denim and leather was beautiful.


Each X Other - AW 2015-2016
Chiharu Okunugi modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Each X Other - AW 2015-2016
Yumi Lambert modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


JACQUEMUS... Ok, there's no much to be said about Simon Porte Jacquemus' work , self-taught designer, Ms. Rei Kawakubo's darling, and one of the shows I expect the most from Paris Fashion Week since a while ago. This Michel Gondry inspiration was a hit! Adore it!


Simon Porte Jacquemus
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Beautiful work, from the double-face make up, hair covering half of the models' face, masks that covered the entire face in other cases, lots of boobs. 


Jacquemus - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Jacquemus - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Knots, bows, exaggerated eyelets, draping, geometry, barefoot models... anyway. It had so many elements that strangely worked all together, in a harmonic cohesion. It was delightful, plain and simple.


Jacquemus - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Jacquemus - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Can't wait to see what day 2 brings. Is Dries van Noten going to blow my mind the way he did with his latest SS collection?? I do hope so... :)

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