jueves, 5 de marzo de 2015

Oh PARIS... AW 2015-2016 Day 3

This week is getting better and better. I like everything I see, literally! Day 3 didn't disappoint me at all. Two very casual and sporty collections captured my attention, besides the perverse magic of one of my darlings and the pleasant sophistication of a millenary house.

Olivier Rousteing presented a beautiful collection for Balmain. Very sophisticated and sexy, there was not as much exposed skin as before though. That runway was full of stars, from the wonderful Adriana Lima and Jessica Stam to relatively gorgeous newcomers Issa Lish and Ysaunny Brito. I must say that this collection is much more sophisticated than the previous ones Balmain by Olivier Rousteing has presented, the appropriate dose of color was applied. I'm not a fan of fringes, however I must admit that Olivier Rousteing used them masterfully in this collection. Balmain is maturing in a very graceful way. Excellent show.


Balmain - AW 2015-2016
Adriana Lima modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Balmain - AW 2015-2016
Riley Montana modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Balmain - AW 2015-2016
Ysaunny Brito modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Balmain - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Two traditional design houses presented beautiful and renovated collections, very casual and sporty, always applying highly innovative design elements. One of them is Carven.

I have always been a fan of Guillaume Henry's work at Carven, now that he became the creative director at Nina Ricci I thought that Carven's DNA could be lost, but no. Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud achieved a beautiful, elegant and casual collection fortunately. I loved the "schoolgirl" vibe the whole collection has. Every single pair of shoes will be a bestseller, they're beautiful. The collection has an air of naivete and practicality that is very favorable for different segments of buyers. Cute collection.


Carven - AW 2015-2016
Helena Severin modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com
Carven - AW 2015-2016
Mae Mei Lapres modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com


Julien Dossena built a collection with perfect engineering for Paco Rabanne. The shape of the coats was exquisite, with an unconventional volume, somewhat puffy, but very sexy because of the baby dolls look they have. Pants and tops made of wired-plastic looked so elegant and casual. The Asian benchmark in the final pieces was evident, and the athletic that the entire collection has was pretty well executed.


Paco Rabanne - AW 2015-2016
Julia Nobis modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Paco Rabanne - AW 2015-2016
Linn Advirsson modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Sébastien Meunier brought new life to Ann Demeulemeester. The brand maintains its gothic and minimalist touch, but more elaborate. I saw details in the draping and treatment in leather that I had never seen before in Ann Demeulemeester's collections. Nice work.


Ann Demeulemeester - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


AND RICK OWENS ... What can I say? Borders between gothic and demonic, many graphics in the treatment of fabrics, volume in shoulders and hips, lots of leather ... The camel colored coats with metal elements were my favorites. Gold leaves make up? Yes, please! Brilliant collection, as always!


Rick Owens - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Rick Owens - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com


Rick Owens - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Lanvin's show had a little of everything. Alber Elbaz presented a collection with pieces from a simple and clean cut to complex clothes in their execution and their fabric treatment. The entire collection has a bohemian feel, but very very luxurious. I liked the silk pieces that had leather appliques. Beautiful.


Lanvin - AW 2015-2016
Aamito Lagum modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Lanvin - AW 2015-2016
Ine Neefs modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

And of course ... Manish Arora brought some ethnic eccentricity  to Paris. Beautiful collection from start to finish. Different from the others!


Manish Arora - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Manish Arora - AW 2015-2016
Photo: indigitalimages.com

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