Fortunately I already thought what to do with the Japanese designers who presents in Paris Fashion Week. I won't talk about any of them in regular reviews, because as I explained in previous posts, they are beyond good and evil, one step ahead of everyone, a step above mortals. All of them are geniuses, artists and artisans that can not be compared to anything or anyone. So the Japanese work will be exhibited in an individual and exclusive post for them.
Let's start with Maison Margiela by John Galliano ... sigh !!! A Clockwork Orange trip???? I expected no less from him. The collection had everything. The first pieces showed his skill as a tailor with clean and well-crafted coats and pants in suede, velvet and leather. Then, while respecting the DNA of Maison Margiela, the pieces shown were designed with Margiela's deconstructive and recycling signature technique.
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Maja Salamon modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Coat detail Photo: indigitalimages.com |
The mini dresses and tops were beautiful! As always the hand of who created this collection is noticeable, and DNA fully respected. The accessories in general were cute and relevant (gloves, shoes, bags, berets). My only concern is that the furry shoes had no longer much prominence because Alessandro Michele from Gucci brought the idea first. It's a shame, but hey, geniuses usually think the same way at a time, so it's totally understandable.
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Xiao Wen Ju modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Outfit's upclose look Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Shoe detail Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Bag and Gloves detail Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Furry shoe detail Photo: indigitalimages.com |
The cast couldn't be crazier, those hunched-over girls made me fall in love hahahaha, those odd postures were everything!!!; styling was very "Galliano". It certainly was a brilliant collection, and the triumphant return of Monsieur John Galliano to Paris.
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Aneta Pajak modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Ming Xi modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Maison Margiela - AW 2015-2016 Alexandra Elizabeth modeling Baret and coat upclose look Photo: indigitalimages.com |
Balenciaga ... damn! I would say it's the best collection that Alexander Wang has ever created for Balenciaga. The shape in coats and skirts was divine. Each element shouted that the spirit of Cristobal Balenciaga was hanging around, however the Alexander Wang's rebellion was felt in an even way.
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| Balenciaga - AW 2015-2016 Lia Pavlova modeling Photo: feudiguaineri.com |
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| Balenciaga - AW 2015-2016 Edie Campbell modeling Photo: feudiguaineri.com |
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| Balenciaga - AW 2015-2015 Aamito Lagum modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
While it is true the collection had many elements denoting sophistication, also the image of all models was powerful and very industrial, which is basically the aesthetics of Alexander Wang, softened with feminine details: those added pearls, accessories, floral motifs. All this created a perfect balance, and very well done. Had a perfect couture feel. Beautiful! Those boots, bags and brooch... wow!!!
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| Balenciaga - AW 2015-2016 Madison Stubbington modeling Photo: feudiguaineri.com |
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| Balenciaga - AW 2015-2016 Grace Bol modeling Photo: feudiguaineri.com |
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| Balenciaga - AW 2015-2016 Molly Bair modeling Photo: feudiguaineri.com |
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| Balenciaga - AW 2015-2016 Sarah Abney modeling Photo: feudiguaineri.com |
By the way, Lady Gaga was there, and Lady Gaga rocked!
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| Alexander Wang and Lady Gaga Photo: feudiguaineri.com |
I really like the way J. W. Anderson is creating a different DNA for Loewe. It is not changing it, but adapting it to his own aesthetic. This collection is married to Jonathan's eponymous collection presented in London a week ago. 80's vibe all the way. Lots of leather, which is the signature material of the house, and the blend of sober colors with pastels make an unconventional silhouette for Loewe's classic look, but in a very pleasing and acceptable balance. The accessories are beautiful, and the silhouette fully Loewe, very mature and classy without losing the irreverence that Jonathan Anderson sells.
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| Loewe - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Loewe - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
With regard to Dior I can say that he was successful in his attempt to put a little "spice" to Dior's silhouette. There was no such reference to the nature and / or gardens, was darker and sensual in Raf Simons' minimal way. The collection was well made, clear and well tailored, luxurious in a very tenuous way. Honestly I was amazed with the Pre Fall presented in Tokyo, so I think the collection is cute, but not insurmountable.
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| Dior - AW 2015-2016 Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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| Dior - AW 2015-2016 Amanda Murphy modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
As always Chalayan showed his minimalist engineering on his collection, very beautiful and versatile, while Isabel Marant show much more sophisticated things in her collection than usual. Always with a "streetwear" style, but with almost couture details in the tailoring and sewing of pieces. I was pleasantly surprised with both collections. Excellent work!
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| Chalayan - AW 2015-2016 Photo: Imaxtree |
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| Isabel Marant - AW 2015-2016 Julia Bergshoeff modeling Photo: indigitalimages.com |
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