martes, 10 de marzo de 2015

Whatever Hedi Slimane is smoking, is paying off... Saint Laurent AW 2015-2016



Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Lida Fox modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

I know ... Hedi Slimane brings nothing new to Saint Laurent, I'm clear on this, but my morbid fascination with his work beats my judgment. The guy is holding Kering's economy, one of the most important fashion conglomerates in the world. He also does whatever he pleases, regardless of trends or codes. Half the world loves him, while the other half hates him; and he follows his instincts against all odds, and triumphs. He's certainly an example of the nerves of steel needed in this industry. 




The collection ... the only negative thing I see are the ripped tights that were a distraction, part of the styling element but distracting from the main pieces. The collection had everything from beautiful leather pieces (the motorcycle jackets were exquisite), to short dresses and cigarette pants and jackets that brought nothing new, but they were so well done, the slim suits ... 


Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Agustina Pérez modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Amra Cerkezovic modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Varvara Shutova modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Lili Sumner modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

The interesting thing about Hedi Slimane's work for Saint Laurent is that by far is fairly mainstream (Forever 21 style to be honest), but from close it is impossible not to appreciate details such as the exquisite embroideries, quality in fabrics, finishes, treatment of textures, well ... an exquisite work. 
Accesories were quite nice and relevant, loved the boots particularly.


 

 

Saint Laurent bags and shoes' details. All photos by indigitalimages.com

There were some pieces that I deeply loved. For example, the  tulle dress and the gray jacket that opened the show with Lida Fox was phenomenal, like the silver mini dress-coat modeled by Varvara Shutova. I am not a lover to fur, for ethical reasons, but I must admit that the multicolored coat shown on the catwalk will be a conversation piece and will cause an extreme controversy, and probably one of the best sellers of the season. Now ... the nipple exposed in the black one-shouldered dress took my breath away, in a great way. Anyway, there were many pieces that captivated me, Sid Vicious would had felt in punk paradise seeing this collection.


Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Lida Fox modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com
Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Photo. indigitalimages.com

The show itself was fabulous as always. The soundtrack was in charge of the Danish band "The Felines", the set had an industrial feel, very dynamic. The makeup and hair were very punk, pretty much like Chrissie Hynde or Siouxsie, cat-eye and red lipstick.

There are three things I have clear after seeing this show:

1. Kering will keep on getting juicy profits from Saint Laurent for long. This collection will sell like hotcakes.
2. Hedi Slimane is not just a designer, he's a smart businessman. He has divided the fashion world, yet he always achieves his goals.
3. I don't want to find these angry bitches in a dark alley. It would become a tragedy :)


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