The big names brought the noise to Paris!!! Chanel, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, and Miu Miu - AW 2015-2016 ( AH and ZOOLANDER of course)

Nicholas Ghesquiere - Louis Vuitton's Creative Director
Photo: indigitalimages.com

The biggest names in fashion present their collections in Paris during the last three days usually, and they're expected by everyone. For example, Nicolas Ghesquiere presented this fantastic collection for Louis Vuitton. I like the fact that Nicolas has added new design elements to this collection. A pronounced volume in shoulders, androgyny in silhouette, the brand's logo printed on some pieces, always with the richness of the materials that characterize this legendary fashion house. 

 

 

Louis Vuitton - AW 2015-2016 Bags and shoes details. All photos by indigitalimages.com


The handbags and shoes were spectacular of course, and seeing Freja Beha Erichsen opening, the newcomer Fernanda Hin Lin Ly with her pink hair stealing the spotlight, and my beloved Liya Kebede closing the show was a real delight.

Louis Vuitton - AW 2015-2016
Lara Carter modeling
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Louis Vuitton
Jing Wen modeling
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Louis Vuitton - AW 2015-2016
Fernanda Hin Lin Ly modeling
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Louis Vuitton - AW 2015-2016
Freja Beha Erichsen modeling
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Louis Vuitton - AW 2015-2016
Liya Kebede modeling
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Valentino's show was beautiful! The crisp and super stylish collection was more casual than usual, without losing the "couture" feel that will never allow Valentino to be in a commonplace. Pierpaolo Piccioli and Mariza Grazia Chiuri subtly moved away from the ceremonial and heavenly image that characterizes Valentino, the collection included a lot of A-Line silhouette, an unconventional layering made out of sweaters over dresses, some well executed patchwork and a lot of transparency. Subtly sexy. As usual clothing and tailoring of the pieces was great, and the image of Valentino is much younger, without losing the sophisticated signature of the house.
The show ... Derek Zoolander and Hansel McDonald closing it ??? That was epic! Hard to beat and totally unexpected. It will surely be in everyone's mind for a while.

Valentino - AW 2015-2016
Clementine Deraedt modeling
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Valentino - AW 2015-2016
Michelle van Bijnen modeling
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Valentino - AW 2015-2016
Yuan Bo Chao modeling
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Valentino - AW 2015-2016
Derek Zoolander
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Valentino - AW 2015-2016
Hansel McDonald
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Valentino - AW 2015-2016
Amalie Schmidt modeling
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Valentino - AW 2015-2016
Aya Jones modeling
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I don't think I can be objective about Miu Miu, I'm sure the crazy amount of prints and textures mixed in such an unconventional way will be severely criticized, but to me all of this works the right way somehow. Miuccia Prada is a genius, and the half childish half perverse image the Miu Miu girls have remains intact. This collection was much more ostentatious with the amount and size of the jewelry, lots of animal print, fake crocodile and python, everything looked so perfect as uneven but seen from a postmodern perspective. Many elements of art-pop were shown, well ... an image that could only be machined on Ms. Prada's brain. Brava!

Miu Miu - AW 2015-2016
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Miu Miu - AW 2015-2016
Julie Hoomans modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Miu Miu - AW 2015-2016
Ala Sekula modeling
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Miu Miu - AW 2015-2016
Inga Dezhina modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Miu Miu - AW 2015-2016
Regitze Christensen modeling
Photo: feudiguaineri.com

Chanel always brings a lot of noise to Paris. The show of this season was no exception. The reinvention of his tweed suits was well executed, and he also brought the classic dual toned slingbacks, which made that the collection looked comfortable enough for the setting that Mr. Lagerfeld gave to a space within Le Grand Palais, building a very posh Parisian brasserie . The evening coats were beautiful and appropriate, and strangely gave a casual touch to the collection, as well as everything else. Chanel is luxury and sophistication, and that's exactly what he showed.

Chanel - AW 2015-2016
Audrey Marnay modeling
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Chanel - AW 2015-2016
Cara Delevingne modeling
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Chanel - AW 2015-2016
Caroline Brasch Nielsen modeling
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Chanel - AW 2015-2016
Julia van Os modeling
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Chanel - AW 2015-2016
Sophia Ahrens modeling
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Chanel - AW 2015-2016
Emma Génier modeling
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When over-the-top styling isn't necesary to show a BRILLIANT COLLECTION! Paris FW AW 2015-2016 Days 6, 7 and 8

I have always been dazzled by the excessive amount of styling and setting of some of the most important runways in the world. Well, I am an obsessed fan of Saint Laurent, and I've always loved what John Galliano did for Dior and now for Maison Margiela, and of course of what Alexander McQueen did when he was around us. They are the supreme kings of the extravagance and flamboyance. This season I learned something new about the shows presented at Fashion Week: I have learned to appreciate a brilliant collection without much ostentation.

This is the case of the collection that the new creative director of Hermès, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented during this fashion week in Paris. The collection was much younger, I had a fairly accessible and less "ethereal" and "unreachable" air. It bring lots of the luxurious austerity feel her previous work at Céline and The Row had. I liked it from beginning to end. Very cohesive and the quality of the pieces spoke for itself. Nice work.

Hermés - AW 2015-2016
Alba Pistolesi modeling
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Hermés - AW 2015-2016
Karolin Wolter modeling
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Now Iris van Herpen... that collection took me to heaven and brought me back. Everything was about the confection and the design of pieces. Fabric treatment was a dream, and flawlessly executed. The way she played with volume and texture was impressive. No make up and a blank stage were the minimal resources she used to present these amazing collection. Brilliant!

Iris van Herpen - AW 2015-2016
Daiane Conterato modeling
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Iris van Herpen - AW 2015-2016
Irina Kravchenko modeling
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Iris van Herpen - AW 2015-2016
Nastya Sten modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Esteban Cortazar brought a varied and quite ethereal collection, masterfully executed. His approach has matured a lot, and each collection he is showing is getting more and more solid. As Stella McCartney, which showed an effortless but well tailored collections, always with that ethereal feel. I loved the executive air it had, and Ms. McCartney's tailoring skills are definitely a highlight. 

Esteban Cortazar - AW 2015-2016
Mari Agory modeling
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Esteban Cortazar - AW 2015-2016
Ondria Hardin modeling
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Stella McCartney - AW 2015-2016
Edie Campbell modeling
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Stella McCartney - AW 2015-2016
Luping Wang modeling
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Chloé and Sonia Rykiel did great this season as well. In both cases the pieces were amazing in their own way. Julie de Libran presented a beautiful collection for Sonia Rykiel. Since its debut last season, expectations about their work have remained high, and she did not disappoint at all this time. While the show itself remained modest and intimate, the quality of the collection is unsurpassed. Some velvet this season, the house's incomparable knitwork and 4 male outfits were presented, all of this happened in a relaxed and peaceful atmosphere, despite the pressure that was on Ms. de Libran's shoulders to maintain a collection of equal or better quality than the one presented last season.

Sonia Rykiel - AW 2015-2016
Cindy Bruna modeling
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Sonia Rikyel - AW 2015-2016
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Chloé meanwhile presented a more empowered collection. The woman who Mary Wright Keller presented this time is less fragile, always very bohemian but less fragile. Many wool and beautiful fabrics, a versatile and casual collection. I particularly loved the denim pieces, it gave a very nice touch to the collection. 

Chloé - AW 2015-2016
Alisa Ahmann modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Chloé - AW 2015-2016
Annika Krijt modeling
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On a separate note. Viktor & Rolf presented a beautiful collection, flawlessly made, this was the right time to present a runway show. Why to present something so well designed in a lookbook? This show was definitely worth to be seen in a runway. They did a brilliant job. 

Viktor & Rolf - AW 2015-2016
Jamie Bochert modeling
Photo: Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf - AW 2015-2016
Linn Arvidsson modeling
Photo: Viktor & Rolf

Moral of the story: Not everything that is glitzy is brilliant and viceversa. Lesson learned!

Whatever Hedi Slimane is smoking, is paying off... Saint Laurent AW 2015-2016

Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Lida Fox modeling
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I know ... Hedi Slimane brings nothing new to Saint Laurent, I'm clear on this, but my morbid fascination with his work beats my judgment. The guy is holding Kering's economy, one of the most important fashion conglomerates in the world. He also does whatever he pleases, regardless of trends or codes. Half the world loves him, while the other half hates him; and he follows his instincts against all odds, and triumphs. He's certainly an example of the nerves of steel needed in this industry. 

The collection ... the only negative thing I see are the ripped tights that were a distraction, part of the styling element but distracting from the main pieces. The collection had everything from beautiful leather pieces (the motorcycle jackets were exquisite), to short dresses and cigarette pants and jackets that brought nothing new, but they were so well done, the slim suits ... 

Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Agustina Pérez modeling
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Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Amra Cerkezovic modeling
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Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Varvara Shutova modeling
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Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Lili Sumner modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

The interesting thing about Hedi Slimane's work for Saint Laurent is that by far is fairly mainstream (Forever 21 style to be honest), but from close it is impossible not to appreciate details such as the exquisite embroideries, quality in fabrics, finishes, treatment of textures, well ... an exquisite work. 
Accesories were quite nice and relevant, loved the boots particularly.

 

 

Saint Laurent bags and shoes' details. All photos by indigitalimages.com

There were some pieces that I deeply loved. For example, the  tulle dress and the gray jacket that opened the show with Lida Fox was phenomenal, like the silver mini dress-coat modeled by Varvara Shutova. I am not a lover to fur, for ethical reasons, but I must admit that the multicolored coat shown on the catwalk will be a conversation piece and will cause an extreme controversy, and probably one of the best sellers of the season. Now ... the nipple exposed in the black one-shouldered dress took my breath away, in a great way. Anyway, there were many pieces that captivated me, Sid Vicious would had felt in punk paradise seeing this collection.

Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Lida Fox modeling
Photo: indigitalimages.com

Saint Laurent - AW 2015-2016
Photo. indigitalimages.com

The show itself was fabulous as always. The soundtrack was in charge of the Danish band "The Felines", the set had an industrial feel, very dynamic. The makeup and hair were very punk, pretty much like Chrissie Hynde or Siouxsie, cat-eye and red lipstick.

There are three things I have clear after seeing this show:

1. Kering will keep on getting juicy profits from Saint Laurent for long. This collection will sell like hotcakes.
2. Hedi Slimane is not just a designer, he's a smart businessman. He has divided the fashion world, yet he always achieves his goals.
3. I don't want to find these angry bitches in a dark alley. It would become a tragedy :)